On most any given Sunday, you’ll find me somewhere other than in front of my TV (usually in bed or at brunch). However, a few weeks ago, I was told that CBS’ Sunday morning news program, aptly named Sunday Morning, aired their annual Food Issue. Though I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve watched the vignette styled news program, I made it a point to set my DVR. Here’s a recap of the episode, complete with its own tip of the hat to the ATL.
Bone Garden Cantina, the Mexican hermana to The Vortex, has been chugging right along for the better part of the past 18-months. A trip to this cantina will take you through a twisting set of roads, rows of single-story retail malls, and some newly sprouted rental complexes. With a solid fan base, though no noticeable nearby office park, this restaurant is particularly popular with the lunch’n munch crowd.
Last week, four of us decided on an impromptu lunch excursion. In need of something different, but not wanting to go too far from home base, we set off down Huff Road to see what had become of Bone Garden.
A self-proclaimed authentic Mexican destination, my first trip to BGC actually came sometime around July/August 2008. That seems like eons ago to me, but the point is that it’s been awhile. For the life of me, I cannot recall any single detail about my inaugural meal there save for the fact that it wasn’t enjoyable. In fact, the experience was so underwhelming that I had a hard time remembering where it was when I went back recently. Continue reading…
If you don’t live in Decatur, there is a good chance that Mezcalito’s Cantina is one of those restaurants you can go a lifetime without trying. In fact, I have driven by this Oakhurst restaurant more times than I can remember; yet, I have never entered its glass doors. Though it doesn’t get a lot of attention outside 30030, the restaurant has had its share of media coups and remains a popular destination for nearby chicas y hombres craving some Mexican food.
In its previous life, Mezcalito’s operated under the name Billy Goat’s Cantina. Having never visited before the other night, I don’t have any good information on the background of the restaurant or the name change. Whatever the case, Mezcalito’s finds itself near the restaurant-centric intersection of East Lake Dr. and Oakview road (aka Oakhurst Square). Inside that two to three block area, Universal Joint and Saba seem to get the most attention. However, all the restaurants there seem to draw a crowd and you’ll even find a Tex-Mex alternative to Mezcalito’s in the nearby Matador Cantina.
Ah Riccardo and my dear sweet Lupe Taqueria. Situated right on Juniper Street in Midtown, I wanted so badly to enjoy your company, to appreciate your culinary statement, and your bubbling atmosphere. Alas, it was not to be. What you gave me was a failure of Titanic proportions. In the blink of an eye you went from a place with so much promise to a dark sea struggling to provide me with the life jacket I so desperately needed. The waters were murky, and that’s being more than generous.
Before I head on down this path of destruction, let us take a quick detour to clarify something for those of you who are not familiar with this blog. First impressions should be considered for what they are. It is absolutely impossible to consider a single meal, and particularly one that takes place inside of a restaurant’s IPO week, and proclaim the establishment a failure with any degree of certainty. However, certain elements of the meal can hint at what is to come.
I am often called to task for my propensity to hold an establishment’s feet to the fire no matter how long they are open. I’m particularly less forgiving in instances where the owner is an established restaurateur.
In that spirit, if people are willing to proclaim Antico as God’s gift to Atlanta’s pizza scene inside of one slice, then we have to be willing to consider all establishments against some reasonably similar criteria. Put it this way, for every Matt Ryan, there are many more Ryan Leafs. Unless some serious soul searching takes place, Lupe Taqueria will be headed to the dead pool faster than you can say “guacamole.”
Restaurateur Riccardo Ullio is perhaps best known for his two Inman Park flagships (Fritti and Sotto Sotto). However, he has opened and operated multiple establishments under the “U Restaurants” umbrella. His latest venture goes by the name of Lupe and has taken over for his now defunct Cuerno. I haven’t been over to see the space, so I can’t comment on the digs.
While Cuerno was a restaurant that focused on Spanish themed tapas and small plates, Lupe does the same thing, only with Mexican inspired fare. A handful of guacamole dishes account for a majority of the apps. That section is rounded out with some queso fundido con chorizo (melted cheese with chorizo sausage) and some ceviche selections. The entrée options include taco plates, quesadillas, an enchilada option, a chile relleno, and a few other selections. Coming in between $10 and $15 per entrée, it’s hard to say if it’s a value … at least until we get a chance to see the quality and portion control.
I’m a bit surprised that you’re required to do three tacos at a time (and those come with the obligatory rice and beans), but I’m encouraged by the available selection of meats. The options include barbacoa de chivo (goat) and lengua (beef tongue) amongst the more “expected” options. Though a number of those selections are available at taquerias up BuHi, there aren’t any good nearby options … so that’s a plus.
Where Lupe might be best suited to succeed is in the liquor department. Their list of tequilas (pdf) is extensive, and that might draw a crowd all by itself. Even if it doesn’t, you can always check out Ullio’s Beleza, a drinking lounge that is essentially next door to Lupe.
905 Juniper St NE, Atlanta, GA 30309 // 678.904.4584 // Lupe website // Lupe menu (pdf)
Overall: 
It seems like nearly every denizen of the metro Atlanta area has made at least a handful of trips to the unusually situated Nuevo Laredo Cantina. Located in Atlanta’s version of no man’s land [though I’ve lumped it in with the Westside], it’s a wildly popular Tex-Mex spot with a dedicated following. Often times, it’s publicly lauded; and so far as my experience has gone, privately snickered at. Still, I’m not 100% sure why I’m penning this piece, as I don’t have any startling revelations to offer up. I’ve been there as many times as most, and I’ll play it out as I see it.
As mentioned, NLC doesn’t attempt to be authentic Mexican. Instead, it focuses on the Mexo-American cuisine of towns like Laredo, TX. As logic would follow, I’m as baffled by those who walk out slamming Nuevo for its lack of authenticity as I am by those who praise it for its traditionalism.
Stashed away in Downtown Norcross is a little Mexican restaurant touting the name Zapata. Though the word translates as shoes to us gringos, the restaurant actually takes its name from Emiliano Zapata, a Mexican revolutionary. Thus, it was predictably cool that the words “Revolutionary Mexican Cuisine” were scribed just under the name on our menus.
I think it would be presumptuous of me to assume that the majority of the people who happen upon this little love of mine have no idea about Taquería Del Sol. In that spirit, I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that this little chain of taco bars (aka taquerías) is the darling of Atlanta’s Mexican restaurant scene. For better or worse, TdS seems to roll off a number of tongues when the conversation turns to “What Mexican restaurant do we want to eat at?”
With four locations locations, a strong following, and more visits under my belt than I could possibly remember, it was only a matter of time before I felt the need to drop some lyrics on my fellow foodie groupies. However, given the circumstances, most notably my lack of free time right now, I thought it might be nice to just hit ya’ll with some pretty little pictures and a few notes.
Ever opened your fridge late at night? If you’re like me, it usually makes you squint and promptly throw your forearm up in a measly attempt to ease your eyes. Well, that’s the kind of reaction I had to a recent meal at the Prickly Pear, a loud and proud taqueria located in the base of the Plaza in Midtown.
Given the price point, the predictably kitsch décor, and the mediocre experience, I can’t say I was really disappointed. Ultimately, we got what we asked for. Put simply, this is the usual Texicana meets Mexicana, and if you judge it against any other standard, you’re doing yourself a disservice.
Originally Posted 11.16.2008
I returned to Mi Barrio last night for what was probably my fifth meal there. While I will say that it was the best meal I’ve ever had there, that was not a consequence of the cuisine. Ultimately, Mi Barrio is a decent restaurant, but drastically overrated in the food community. At the end of the day, I would only recommend Mi Barrio if you have a hankering for some Mexican food and live in nearby Grant Park. The food last night was par for the course for Barrio. However, my good buddy Chris (from Café Agora fame) and Leslie, his wonderful wife, were kind enough to join me. That’s what made this fun.
