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Last week, I mentioned that a well respected NYC foodie and a local heavyweight were scampering around town to try some of the best Atlanta has to offer.  Yesterday, Ed Levine, the NYC dude of Serious Eats fame, posted a writing by John Kessler, the AJC’s food dude.  Topics included the delicious pizzas that we all talk oh so much about.  Yes, that’s Varasano’s, Antico Pizza, & Fritti, for all you rock dwellers.  Though there isn’t a great deal of “review” details in the post, the article does seem to tip its hat in the direction of Antico.

Kessler goes on to discuss Atlanta’s burgeoning farm-to-table scene, BuHi’s Korean BBQ and ramen, and checks out with a tip of the hat to Woodfire Grill’s Kevin Gillespie and The Hil’s Hilary White.  I’m not sure if Levine actually went anywhere other than Antico and V’s, and his opinion is notably absent from the piece.  Still, it’s great to see Kessler pushing us on the national scene, and it’s a well-written summary piece for anyone trying to get a lay of the land.

[via Serious Eats]

Ah Riccardo and my dear sweet Lupe Taqueria.  Situated right on Juniper Street in Midtown, I wanted so badly to enjoy your company, to appreciate your culinary statement, and your bubbling atmosphere.  Alas, it was not to be.  What you gave me was a failure of Titanic proportions.  In the blink of an eye you went from a place with so much promise to a dark sea struggling to provide me with the life jacket I so desperately needed.  The waters were murky, and that’s being more than generous.

Before I head on down this path of destruction, let us take a quick detour to clarify something for those of you who are not familiar with this blog.  First impressions should be considered for what they are.  It is absolutely impossible to consider a single meal, and particularly one that takes place inside of a restaurant’s IPO week, and proclaim the establishment a failure with any degree of certainty.  However, certain elements of the meal can hint at what is to come.

I am often called to task for my propensity to hold an establishment’s feet to the fire no matter how long they are open.  I’m particularly less forgiving in instances where the owner is an established restaurateur.

In that spirit, if people are willing to proclaim Antico as God’s gift to Atlanta’s pizza scene inside of one slice, then we have to be willing to consider all establishments against some reasonably similar criteria.  Put it this way, for every Matt Ryan, there are many more Ryan Leafs.  Unless some serious soul searching takes place, Lupe Taqueria will be headed to the dead pool faster than you can say “guacamole.”

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Restaurateur Riccardo Ullio is perhaps best known for his two Inman Park flagships (Fritti and Sotto Sotto).  However, he has opened and operated multiple establishments under the “U Restaurants” umbrella.  His latest venture goes by the name of Lupe and has taken over for his now defunct Cuerno.  I haven’t been over to see the space, so I can’t comment on the digs.

While Cuerno was a restaurant that focused on Spanish themed tapas and small plates, Lupe does the same thing, only with Mexican inspired fare.  A handful of guacamole dishes account for a majority of the apps.  That section is rounded out with some queso fundido con chorizo (melted cheese with chorizo sausage) and some ceviche selections.  The entrée options include taco plates, quesadillas, an enchilada option, a chile relleno, and a few other selections.  Coming in between $10 and $15 per entrée, it’s hard to say if it’s a value … at least until we get a chance to see the quality and portion control.

I’m a bit surprised that you’re required to do three tacos at a time (and those come with the obligatory rice and beans), but I’m encouraged by the available selection of meats.  The options include barbacoa de chivo (goat) and lengua (beef tongue) amongst the more “expected” options.  Though a number of those selections are available at taquerias up BuHi, there aren’t any good nearby options … so that’s a plus.

Where Lupe might be best suited to succeed is in the liquor department.  Their list of tequilas (pdf) is extensive, and that might draw a crowd all by itself.  Even if it doesn’t, you can always check out Ullio’s Beleza, a drinking lounge that is essentially next door to Lupe.

Lupe Restaurant Address & Information

905 Juniper St NE, Atlanta, GA 30309 // 678.904.4584 // Lupe website // Lupe menu (pdf)

Sorry for the lack of posts yesterday and today.  Real life beckons when you’ve been on the lamb for a few weeks.  Still, I’ve managed to get back into the foodie thing with my return to the ATL.  Last night, I found myself at Fritti, the popular pizza joint that sits just outside of Inman Park.  A lot, and I do mean a lot, has been said about Riccardo Ullio’s little restaurant in the past year.  As such, I felt it was about time that I gave ya’ll a little taste of what to expect.

Fritti sits on one side of the coin in what seems to have been dubbed “the Atlanta Pizza Wars.”  The other “contender” in this sham is Varasano’s Pizzeria.  I call it a sham for one reason: These restaurants are both worthy of a following; however, I cannot for the life of me identify any other duo where people are asked to like one establishment and not the other.  It’s not even important who started the debate, or how it got so widespread.  All that matters to me is that people realize that Fritti and Varasano’s are different types of pizza.  Neither is the “correct way” and neither is “the best X, Y, or Z.”  They are simply different takes on a single culinary tradition.  Some will undoubtedly find one better than the other, and that’s just fine.  Hopefully, people can put down them “fighting words” at the mere mention of either establishment and just take them at face value.

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So the Mushroom Channel is a blog dedicated to all things funghi.  It’s a pretty good read despite it’s lack of diversity.  Yesterday, I noticed they had an interview with Riccardo Ullio, the owner of notable Atlanta restaurants Sotto Sotto, Fritti, Cuerno, and Beleza.  In that interview, Ullio shares with the crowd the method behind his Funghi Fritti.  Enjoy!

Chef Riccardo’s Funghi Fritti

• 12 pounds assorted mushrooms (such as white, crimini, portobello, shiitake)
• 4 1/2 cups water
• 1 1/2 cups white wine
• 6 cups rice flour
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh rosemary
• Truffle oil, as needed
• Canola oil, as needed
• Salt, to taste Pepper, to taste

Directions

1. Stem and cut the mushrooms into bite-sized pieces.
2. In a large bowl, add the water and wine, then slowly whisk in the rice flour until the batter is the consistency of a thick gravy.
3. Add the rosemary and season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Add the mushrooms and toss until the mushrooms are lightly and evenly coated.
5. For each serving to order: Fry 8 ounces of the mushrooms at 350 degrees F, using a metal spoon to keep them from clumping, 3 to 4 minutes, or until the batter is crisp.
6. Drain the mushrooms on a paper towel, then drizzle very lightly with truffle oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.