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Lupe Taqueria Restaurant Review – Midtown, Atlanta, GA [First Impressions] 23

Posted by foodiebuddha on October 22, 2009

Ah Riccardo and my dear sweet Lupe Taqueria. Situated right on Juniper Street in Midtown, I wanted so badly to enjoy your company, to appreciate your culinary statement, and your bubbling atmosphere. Alas, it was not to be. What you gave me was a failure of Titanic proportions. In the blink of an eye you went from a place with so much promise to a dark sea struggling to provide me with the life jacket I so desperately needed. The waters were murky, and that’s being more than generous.

Before I head on down this path of destruction, let us take a quick detour to clarify something for those of you who are not familiar with this blog. First impressions should be considered for what they are. It is absolutely impossible to consider a single meal, and particularly one that takes place inside of a restaurant’s IPO week, and proclaim the establishment a failure with any degree of certainty. However, certain elements of the meal can hint at what is to come.

I am often called to task for my propensity to hold an establishment’s feet to the fire no matter how long they are open. I’m particularly less forgiving in instances where the owner is an established restaurateur.

In that spirit, if people are willing to proclaim Antico as God’s gift to Atlanta’s pizza scene inside of one slice, then we have to be willing to consider all establishments against some reasonably similar criteria. Put it this way, for every Matt Ryan, there are many more Ryan Leafs. Unless some serious soul searching takes place, Lupe Taqueria will be headed to the dead pool faster than you can say “guacamole.”

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Riccardo Ullio’s Lupe Replaces Cuerno In Midtown [Openings] 2

Posted by foodiebuddha on October 21, 2009

Restaurateur Riccardo Ullio is perhaps best known for his two Inman Park flagships (Fritti and Sotto Sotto). However, he has opened and operated multiple establishments under the “U Restaurants” umbrella. His latest venture goes by the name of Lupe and has taken over for his now defunct Cuerno. I haven’t been over to see the space, so I can’t comment on the digs.

While Cuerno was a restaurant that focused on Spanish themed tapas and small plates, Lupe does the same thing, only with Mexican inspired fare. A handful of guacamole dishes account for a majority of the apps. That section is rounded out with some queso fundido con chorizo (melted cheese with chorizo sausage) and some ceviche selections. The entrée options include taco plates, quesadillas, an enchilada option, a chile relleno, and a few other selections. Coming in between $10 and $15 per entrée, it’s hard to say if it’s a value … at least until we get a chance to see the quality and portion control.

I’m a bit surprised that you’re required to do three tacos at a time (and those come with the obligatory rice and beans), but I’m encouraged by the available selection of meats. The options include barbacoa de chivo (goat) and lengua (beef tongue) amongst the more “expected” options. Though a number of those selections are available at taquerias up BuHi, there aren’t any good nearby options … so that’s a plus.

Where Lupe might be best suited to succeed is in the liquor department. Their list of tequilas (pdf) is extensive, and that might draw a crowd all by itself. Even if it doesn’t, you can always check out Ullio’s Beleza, a drinking lounge that is essentially next door to Lupe.